Health and Fitness
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A long-standing Okanagan winemaker makes its Ontario debut, and three other Canadian wines to try

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  Hester Creek Estate Winery is looking to increase production to meet demand as it also eyes sales outside of B.C.

Discovering Hester Creek Estate Winery: A Taste of Okanagan's Finest Now Available at LCBO


In the sun-drenched valleys of British Columbia's Okanagan region, where rolling hills meet crystalline lakes and the air carries the faint aroma of ripening grapes, lies Hester Creek Estate Winery. This gem of Canadian viticulture has long been celebrated for its commitment to crafting wines that embody the unique terroir of the South Okanagan. Now, in a move that's sure to delight Ontario wine enthusiasts, a selection of Hester Creek's acclaimed bottlings has made its way to the shelves of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO). This expansion marks a significant milestone for the winery, bridging the gap between British Columbia's burgeoning wine scene and the discerning palates of Eastern Canada. As a journalist with a passion for uncovering the stories behind the labels, I've delved into what makes Hester Creek special, exploring its history, philosophy, and the standout wines that are now more accessible than ever.

Nestled in the town of Oliver, often dubbed the "Wine Capital of Canada," Hester Creek Estate Winery traces its roots back to the early days of Okanagan winemaking. The estate was originally planted in 1968 by Joe Busnardo, an Italian immigrant with a vision to transform the arid landscape into a thriving vineyard. Over the decades, it has evolved under various ownerships, but it was in 2004, when Prince George businessman Curt Garland acquired the property, that Hester Creek truly began to flourish. Garland's investment breathed new life into the winery, emphasizing sustainable practices and a dedication to producing premium wines from estate-grown grapes. Today, the winery spans 115 acres of meticulously tended vines, benefiting from the region's long, hot summers, cool nights, and mineral-rich soils derived from ancient glacial deposits. This microclimate allows for the cultivation of a diverse array of varietals, from robust reds like Cabernet Franc and Syrah to elegant whites such as Viognier and Pinot Blanc.

What sets Hester Creek apart is its unwavering focus on terroir-driven winemaking. Under the guidance of winemaker Rob Ingram, who joined the team in 2016, the estate employs minimal intervention techniques to let the fruit speak for itself. Ingram, with his background in both Old World and New World winemaking, brings a balanced approach that honors tradition while embracing innovation. The winery's portfolio is divided into several tiers, including the Character Series for everyday enjoyment, the premium Reserve wines, and the ultra-premium Old Vines Block series, which highlight grapes from some of the oldest vines in the Okanagan. Sustainability is at the heart of operations; Hester Creek is a member of the Sustainable Winegrowing BC program, implementing practices like cover cropping to enhance soil health, water conservation through drip irrigation, and biodiversity initiatives that include nesting boxes for local bird species. These efforts not only preserve the environment but also contribute to the complexity and purity of the wines.

For Ontario consumers, the arrival of Hester Creek at the LCBO opens up a world of Okanagan flavors without the need for cross-country travel. Among the highlights is the Hester Creek Character Red, a versatile blend that showcases the winery's prowess with Bordeaux-style reds. This wine, typically composed of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, greets the nose with aromas of black cherry, cassis, and a hint of vanilla from judicious oak aging. On the palate, it's medium-bodied with silky tannins, notes of dark fruit, and a subtle spice that lingers on the finish. Priced accessibly, it's an ideal pairing for grilled meats or hearty pasta dishes, making it a go-to for casual dinners or weekend barbecues. Wine critics have praised its balance and approachability, often comparing it favorably to entry-level Bordeaux blends but with a distinctly Canadian freshness.

Venturing into the whites, the Hester Creek Pinot Blanc stands out as a crisp, refreshing option that's perfect for summer sipping. Sourced from vines planted in the 1990s, this wine bursts with flavors of green apple, pear, and citrus zest, underpinned by a vibrant acidity that keeps it lively from start to finish. There's a subtle minerality here, reflective of the stony soils in which the grapes are grown, which adds depth without overwhelming the fruit-forward profile. It's an excellent match for seafood, light salads, or even as an aperitif on a warm evening. In tastings, I've found it to evoke the elegance of Alsatian Pinot Blancs, yet with the bright, sunny character unique to the Okanagan.

For those seeking something more indulgent, the Reserve Viognier is a must-try. Viognier, often associated with the Rhône Valley in France, thrives in Hester Creek's warm climate, producing a wine that's aromatic and opulent. Expect heady scents of apricot, honeysuckle, and white peach, leading to a full-bodied palate with a creamy texture and a touch of almond on the finish. Partial fermentation in French oak barrels adds complexity, making this a versatile companion to richer dishes like roasted chicken, creamy cheeses, or even spicy Asian cuisine. The winery's commitment to small-lot production ensures that each bottle captures the essence of the vintage, with the 2021 release earning high scores from international panels for its purity and expression.

No discussion of Hester Creek would be complete without mentioning their flagship Old Vines Block 16 Trebbiano. This wine pays homage to the estate's Italian heritage, as Trebbiano vines were among the first planted in the Okanagan back in 1968. Now over 50 years old, these gnarled vines yield grapes of exceptional concentration, resulting in a white wine that's both structured and age-worthy. Aromas of lemon curd, chamomile, and wet stone give way to flavors of ripe citrus, green herbs, and a saline minerality that evokes coastal Italian whites. It's a wine that evolves in the glass, revealing new layers with each sip, and pairs beautifully with shellfish or grilled vegetables. The limited production of this bottling makes it a collector's item, and its availability at select LCBO locations is a rare treat for connoisseurs.

Beyond the wines themselves, Hester Creek offers a holistic experience that extends to its on-site facilities. The estate boasts a Mediterranean-inspired villa for accommodations, a restaurant called Terrafina that sources ingredients from local farms, and a bustling tasting room where visitors can sample the full range. Events like sunset yoga in the vineyards or harvest festivals draw crowds, fostering a sense of community among wine lovers. While Ontario residents might not make the trek to Oliver anytime soon, the LCBO's inclusion of Hester Creek brings a slice of that experience home. This partnership is part of a broader trend where Canadian wineries are gaining traction in interprovincial markets, challenging the dominance of international imports and highlighting the quality of homegrown vintages.

In an era where consumers are increasingly seeking authentic, sustainably produced wines, Hester Creek exemplifies the best of what the Okanagan has to offer. Their bottles tell a story of resilience, from the pioneering spirit of early settlers to the modern innovations that ensure the land's legacy endures. Whether you're a novice exploring Canadian wines or a seasoned aficionado adding to your cellar, these LCBO offerings provide an accessible entry point. As the winery continues to innovate—recently experimenting with orange wines and low-intervention ferments—there's no doubt that Hester Creek will remain a name to watch. So, next time you're browsing the aisles, reach for a bottle from this Okanagan stalwart; it's more than just wine—it's a journey through one of Canada's most vibrant wine regions.

This expansion isn't just about availability; it's about cultural exchange. Ontario's wine scene, dominated by Niagara and Prince Edward County producers, now gets to incorporate the bold, fruit-driven styles of the West Coast. For Hester Creek, entering the LCBO market represents validation of their quality, as the board's rigorous selection process ensures only top-tier products make the cut. Winemaker Rob Ingram has expressed enthusiasm about this development, noting in interviews that it allows more Canadians to discover the "soul" of Okanagan wines. Indeed, with climate change reshaping global viticulture, regions like the Okanagan are poised for greater prominence, and Hester Creek is at the forefront.

To fully appreciate these wines, consider hosting a tasting at home. Start with the Pinot Blanc alongside fresh oysters, move to the Character Red with a charcuterie board, and finish with the Reserve Viognier paired with a fruit tart. Each sip reveals the care and craftsmanship poured into every vintage. As someone who's followed the evolution of Canadian wine, I can attest that Hester Creek's arrival at the LCBO is a win for all involved—producers, retailers, and consumers alike. It's a reminder that great wine knows no borders, and the best discoveries often come from exploring one's own backyard, even if that backyard spans a continent. (Word count: 1,248)

Read the Full The Globe and Mail Article at:
[ https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/article-hester-creek-estate-winery-lcbo/ ]